Celebrating a century of Pitoy Moreno's iconic designs

The Metropolitan Museum of Manila (The M), in partnership with the Jusi & Piña Legacy Foundation, invites fashion enthusiasts and history buffs alike to step into the world of a true Filipino visionary. "Timeless: J. Moreno" pays tribute to the unparalleled legacy of iconic designer Pitoy Moreno, marking his centennial with an exhibition that showcases his enduring impact on Philippine fashion.

A trailblazer in couture, Moreno — born in 1925 and widely revered beyond his passing in 2018 — redefined Filipiniana with his masterful transformation of the Maria Clara gown. By skillfully blending tradition with innovation, he introduced opulent fabrics like jusi, piña, and Japanese brocade in his coveted designs elevating the country's national attire into the realm of high fashion while preserving its deep cultural roots.

Throughout his career, he dressed some of the country's most prominent socialites and celebrities, including Mary Prieto, Chona Kasten, Joji Felix, Conchitina Sevilla, Gloria Romero, Susan Roces, and Amalia Fuentes. Their association with him cemented his reputation, making Filipiniana fashion not just culturally significant but also glamorous and aspirational.

"This exhibition and publication celebrating the centennial of Moreno's birth aims to reinscribe his important contributions and deliberate deployment of design to fashion a Philippine identity. It also aspires to inspire and guide the new generation of designers in their quest for impactful careers that simultaneously contribute to nation-building," said New York-based art historian Florina Capistrano-Baker, Curator in charge of "Timeless: J. Moreno" said in a statement. The exhibit is not only a tribute to Moreno's artistry but also an educational opportunity for fashion students and enthusiasts to learn about his creative process.

The exhibition will feature a carefully curated selection of Moreno's designs sourced from his personal atelier and private collectors.

In an interview with The Manila Times, co-curator Ditas Samson shared that meticulous process was behind assembling the collection which involved extensive research and collaboration.

"The core of it came from the J. Moreno Estate, meaning his studio and atelier, and this was enhanced with a number of loans from private collections," Samson explained.

"It started with reading, a lot of reading. We read his two books, 'Kasalan' (1990) and 'Philippine Costume' (1995), and then we went to libraries and connected what we studied with what we already knew. We then cataloged his studio, which housed close to 130 garments, though not all could be included in the exhibit," she added.

Samson highlighted how Moreno's designs evolved throughout his career, incorporating elements from diverse Filipino traditions.

"His studio is interpreted in the exhibit so that visitors can get a feel of his creative space. He first designed costumes for the Bayanihan Dance Company and later began creating gowns for Malacañang, as many of his friends and classmates were in politics," she shared.

One of Moreno's notable techniques was incorporating Mindanao textiles and embellishing them with beads, creating unique, intricate designs.

"He would get Mindanao fabrics, scarves, and headgear, but he would put beads on them, he would embellish them, so they would look different. He also designed the gowns of beauty queens, such as Charlene Gonzales when she won Best National Costume at Miss Universe 1994. He used a lot of jusi and piña, and there is a dedicated section in the exhibit showcasing his stunning wedding gowns in both black and white." Samson noted.

Moreno's enduring influence lies in his ability to merge Philippine tradition with a global aesthetic, making his designs both culturally significant and universally appealing.

"His designs are based on our national dress, but they are stylized. At the same time, he was cognizant of Western fashion in Paris and London. His designs are universal and classic, not just because they followed trends but because they captured the essence of timeless style. He was able to seamlessly blend Filipino traditions with a global perspective, making his works relevant across generations," Samson explained.

The exhibition will be accompanied by a commemorative book that highlights Moreno not just as a designer, but as a visionary, a friend, and a proud Filipino who shaped the nation's fashion identity.

"Timeless: J. Moreno" runs until June 29 at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila in Bonifacio Global City.